This soup is a true comfort food. Its clean and fresh flavor is satisfying and hearty, but healthy, too. I served it to Anthony Bourdain when he came to Rockland for his show No Reservations. It’s often on the menu at Primo.
In a large stockpot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, celery, carrots, and leek greens (not the white part), and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 3 more minutes. Add the saffron, crushing with the tips of your fingers, then add the bay leaves and crushed red pepper flakes, and cook for 2 minutes more. Add the tomatoes and tomato purée and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the wine, stir well, and cook until all the liquid is reduced by half.
Add the fish stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Cool slightly, and strain stock through a mesh strainer. Meanwhile, in another large soup pot, heat the butter and add the leek whites. Cook for 2 minutes, then add the cubed fish and the strained broth. Bring to a boil. Swirl 4 heaping tablespoons of rouille (recipe follows) into the hot soup, and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper.
To serve, place pieces of crusty bread in a serving bowl. Ladle the soup over the bread. Garnish with fresh chopped oregano or parsley.
Serves 4 to 6.
From Cooking Down East by Marjorie Standish